Tutima and Esquivel Go All Out on a Rugged-Yet-Refined Watch and Accessories Capsule

watch

Jeffrey Westbrook

Welcome to Dialed In, Esquire’s weekly column bringing you horological happenings and the most essential news from the watch world since March 2020.

Gift-with-purchase is a de rigeur part of the watch world these days, even if it rarely amounts to more than a couple of extra straps and a doohickey for changing them out. But Tutima, a German brand out of the watchmaking capital of Germany, the town of Glashütte, has gone all out to deliver something rather more luxurious in a made-to-order collaboration with L.A. shoemaker and all-around leather craftsman George Esquivel.

Named the Compass Collection, it includes Tutima’s Patria Dual Time, a 43mm GMT watch available for the first time in steel in just 25 pieces. But as part of the deal, customers get a range of equally limited Esquivel accessories, all in the hand-painted and burnished vachetta leather for which George’s downtown Los Angeles workshop is known. The Compass collection includes two NATO straps, an accompanying watch holder, a pair of Esquivel’s signature Chelsea boots, and a leather weekend bag. The straps, boots, and leather duffle are all produced at Esquivel House in L.A., the designer’s nerve center, which opened in 2020, and where he conducts one-on-one appointments with current and prospective clients.

Vern Breitenbrucher

Compass Collection

Tutima x Esquivel esquivelshoes.com

$16,900.00

Tutima is well enough known in watch circles for its affordable, functional pilot watches in the $2-$4K range, and chronographs up to $8K. But for his collaboration, Esquivel went to the top of the Tutima heap and selected the Patria range, one that features high-grade finishes in the Glashütte tradition, and an in-house, hand-wound movement. The movement features a dual time display capable of tracking two independent time zones (one of them sharing the seconds dial at 6 o’clock) and a 65-hour power reserve. While most of the company’s output is firmly in the more accessible end, Tutima is also at pains to rekindle German watchmaking’s past glories and develop watches at this more exacting end of the market. The brand’s work in this respect, in fact, garnered it a Manufacture of the Year award—the first one given—by the Association of German Manufacturers in 2018.

compass collection

Bag, boots, watch? Check.

Alejandro Draguicevich

It’s a highly unusual collaboration in watchmaking for sure and pretty rare in accessories, too. It all comes with a price tag of $16,900, but it’s worth noting here that firstly, Esquivel’s leather pieces are hand-made and finished by craftsmen. And on the watch front, the previous gold-only version of Tutima’s Patria weighed in at a hefty $24,500 all on its own. For his edition, steel was specifically chosen by George himself to ensure the watch represents a fusion of elegance and ruggedness, a mix that makes it—like his accessories—wearable in all manner of places.

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